QUEEN OF THE ARABIAN SEA

Of the many elements involved in producing a film, background scores can sometimes be the identifying factor for characters in a movie or web series. Even in television serials, each character has a specific musical entry. Have you noticed how there is a certain tune that plays when the villain enters a room, full of foreboding? Or the vibrant score that is given to the lead actor, signifying their heroic personality (if there is such a thing). I like to think that some of us have BGMs of our own, which connects to what we liked watching as we grew up. Or maybe it is from our favorite album. And this need not be constant throughout our lifetime, it will meander as our emotions and aspirations do. I have one score that plays every time I am extremely amped up – in excitement, or anger. It’s the sound of a chenda-mela, the chorus of percussion instruments from Kerala. It is as riveting as an instrumental symphony could possibly get, involving dozens of artists working in perfect harmony to create a rhythmic tune that can give you goosebumps. Played in temple festivals and celebrations all across Kerala, the energy it evokes is crazy.

Kochi, my hometown, is no ordinary city. It is a port town, and some of the first travelers from the Middle East, from Europe and from East Asia landed in the sub-continent at Kochi. A key point of the Indian Ocean’s trade routes, carrying multiple religions, customs, and cultures along with its spices and coconuts. The city has countless combinations of faith and language, and this is not from an IT boom that suddenly brought people cross country over a couple of decades (yes, Bangalore). It is from centuries of interactions and inclusivity. My own ancestors are not from Kochi, you can trace me back to Goa and the extinct Saraswati River way up north. I have passed many hours wondering what the waves of migration, war and exploration were that has led to the point where I enjoy a chenda-mela in my local community temple. I’m sure there is enough historical study on the Konkan coast, but that is too much work. Plus, there are our Portuguese friends who make a civilization changing appearance in Goa. I also wonder if kids in Portugal wonder or even know about Goa like I do.

Coming back to Kochi, it is often considered not the place for investment of capital and growing businesses. That is because of its strong communist government, and the hold it has on the people. I have no political leanings yet, but I can claim to have benefited from the welfare-focused policies of my state. Not just that, I have enjoyed way too many school holidays because one or the other union was on strike. From my experience, the income gaps are not as bad across class and gender. Even historically, Kerala’s family institutions have been matrilineal unlike most of the country. It is anyone’s guess why some of the strongest female voices, the high literacy rate and positive sex ratios also come from here. Not that it is free from the problems India and the world faces on women’s safety, but it is far ahead in some of the fundamental aspects of gender equality. Case in point, the recent menstruation leave announced by Kerala’s government, with a 2% benefit given in attendance. If you are wondering how that is a big deal, I’d request you to do a bit of brushing up on 8th grade biology. It is important, and a step in the right direction, and as someone who, like 50% of the population, is crawling from unavoidable pain for 30 days every year, I’d go as far as to say 2% is not enough.

I do miss Kochi and can’t bear to be away from the backwaters and the coconut trees and the chaaya-kadas for too long. That is home, isn’t it? It is not just the building we lived or grew up in, but also the streets, sights and landmarks of the town we call our “native place”. Each city holds its history and heritage- Bangalore, Hyderabad, Delhi or Lucknow. Obviously, we all feel our city is one step ahead – I know every Mumbaikar who read the last line rolled their eyes. My hometown has been a safe haven for my ancestors, a solace for ships full of people who arrived in search of better fortune, a source of labor and growth for Gulf countries, a foreground for the first democratically elected communist government in the world, a SMART city with its gorgeous turquoise colored metro rail, a powerhouse of Travancore style art and artforms, a still vibrant hub of trade and a cosmopolitan town before the word was even invented. Also, it’s Chettinad cuisine is a good yardstick for what fish curry should taste like. It is a city that is welcoming and withstanding, a key piece in the chess game of Indian history, truly a queen of the Arabian sea.